Dyrhólaey, Kerið, Reykholt
Monday 1st September
In Iceland, summer and the tourist season both end on August 31st, and
our weather suggested why: it cleared a little every so often and it only
rained heavily occasionally, but it was basically damp all day. I used
my waterproof overpants for the first time.
Braving some corrugations and pot-holes - the worst road of the trip -
we drove out to Dyrhólaey, crossing the mudflats and then climbing up
onto the headland. We got to see various islands, and the Reynisdrangur
seastacks at Vik from the other side, and the lighthouse (and belaying
points presumably used to drag the building materials up, since there
was no road when it was built), but none of it was that impressive in
mudflats, with fulmar and skua
On the way out, we stopped and went for a walk on the mudflats.
There were swans and two kinds of brown wading birds we couldn't identify
properly. We also saw one skua "guarding" a juvenile fulmar - presumably
waiting for it to die - and a less patient pair taking turns to peck
at another every few minutes.
We stopped at Skógar, so Camilla could buy some woolens from the museum
shop, but ended up having a cake and coffee as well - and we had to
have another look at Skógafoss, of course. It wasn't raining when we
reached Seljalandsfoss, so we did the walk behind the waterfall, which
we hadn't done when we were there before. On the road soon afterwards
we saw what we're pretty sure was a merlin, dogfighting with another
bird over the road.
Hekla had her head hidden in the clouds. At Hveravöllur the Saga Centre
had shut down the previous day. And we failed to find the museum
in Selfoss, but had lunch there on the other side of the river, watching
the gulls - it was windy and cold. We were now in "Golden Circle"
territory, on the main tourist circuit, but we had the crater of Kerið
all to ourselves for a while, until a tour bus pulled up.
glasshouses in Reykholt
We got into Reykholt in light rain; in the gloom the glowing greenhouses
were particularly impressive. Finding a swimming pool, we were afraid
that at 4.50 it would be just about to close, but happily it stayed open
till 6, so we had our first swim in Iceland. It was most pleasant to
sit in a heated pool with light rain falling, and we even ventured
onto the small water-slide a few times.
On the way to Geysir we stopped briefly to look at Flaxi falls, with what
looked like a salmon climbing ladder, and another circular sheep byre.
Next: Geysir, Gullfoss, Þingvellir
Previous: Höfn and back
[Alternative spellings: Dyrholaey, Kerid]